the book of tea

when i was in architecture school, required reading was the book of tea.

this well crafted handbook lead the reader through the various rituals of the teahouse, subtly creating links between the service and preparation of this beverage and one's movement through the cosmic universe ... existentialism.

since that time, tea has peripherally moved in and out of my life. my childhood best friend ian used to insist that the very smell of tetley's made him vomit. my iraqi inlaws served it after meals, de rigeur, in their own middle eastern way. i've tried recipes for earl grey madeleines. and frequented the famous mariage freres tea salons of paris.

who could forgo the delicious indian chai, so ubiquitous in jaipur, delhi, and mumbai? a combination of milk, tea, spices (pepper, cardamon, etc.), sugar - a hot concoction in both temperature and taste ... and a most delicious way to pass the day!

i am a big fan of the organic tea range put out by heavenly tea. the leafy substances are perfumed in many cases with other organic ingredients which evoke not only middle eastern mystery, but also far eastern scents, sub-continental flavors, and the earthy tones of exotic locales. paired with the health benefits of these wonderful teas, this is a winning combination.

i was recently turned onto the act of drinking tea again. not for its medicinal or anti-oxidant qualities (impressive!). rather, tea as community sprang forth on a recent trip to morocco. mint tea at dar cherifa. or on the rooftop of our chic riad. or after dinner at fabulous and delicious le foundouk. or around a courtyard sharing sweets with perfect strangers (thanks maryam!).

since that journey in february, we drink moroccan mint tea almost nightly. in a large, white ceramic teapot, we heap in tablespoons of raw sugar; to that we add tea leaves, a giant bunch of fresh mint, and boiling water. we let it steep until the sweet liquid is the color of honey, and we drink (repeatedly - gallons!) the mint tea in lacy teaglasses (small, tall, gold and colored glass). the teacups themselves transport us back to our visit to north africa, being one of the few cheap purchases we made spontaneously one afternoon in the medina.

jane is still lamenting the painting she did not purchase at ministero del gusto - a silkscreened image of said cups by the london artist hassan hajjaj ... maybe next time!

h

dynamic duo

what a delightful concoction - m&m's with peanut butter!

you may have pegged me for a foodie snob (guilty), but there are some things in life that transgress even a cleansed palette. the aforementioned items fall into this category. i, unlike many i know, am NOT a chocolate snob. i love chocolate. and frankly, the more cloyingly sweet, the better. milk? yummy! dark? delectable! white? not even real chocolate, but oh so good! i will take a hershey's kiss over any belgian chocolate, any day (no offense debbie & dino!). i LOVE my low cocoa content american chocolate - is it a throwback to my childhood? have my tastebuds been hijacked by memory? maybe. but who cares! it's chocolate.

established: m&m's are delicious (bear with me). how about some peanut butter with that? smooth only please, the thought of chunky does not entice. creamy, salty, fatty - oh, i'm getting hungry. a spoonful of peanut butter, sprinkled with m&m's - a delicious bedtime snack! try to stop at five servings, usually my threshold. i've read that eating peanut butter before going to bed allows one to wake up refreshed and clear ... i'm sold!

don't tell anyone my secret, this is kind of embarrassing!

h

taim

for some time now, i have been expounding the virtues of our lovely taim.

it is now firmly entrenched in the west village, a neighborhood landmark of sorts. it is a rare breed - delicious, fast, cheap, and elegant - and extols it's virtues with a wonderfully executed graphic logo.

taim is hebrew for 'tasty', and that it is. sitting blithely on waverly place, it lounges about casually next to a theater and across from what used to be world of video. around the corner lies the former apartment of tom and adrienne, now in south carolina, having abandoned us all those years ago!

back to taim. to call it a restaurant would be a misnomer. it is a tiny enclave where only the freshest, most delicious, and artfully arranged falafels emerge. brilliant in a variety of flavors - regular, green, harissa, and specials - every fried chick pea ball is hot, moist, and tasty (kind of starting to sound like world of video all over again). the homemade moroccan spicy carrots are piquant; the hummus is thick and rich; the tahini delicate and fluid. israeli salad, zatar bread, and other middle eastern goodies round out the menu. i try to stay away from the addictive fries with saffron mayo for obvious reasons.

i have brought practically everyone i know to taim, although many have resisted its charms - who knows why? we love the owners, who despite repeated attempts, have not given us t-shirts to wear as free advertising! their french and israeli sensibilities show up not only in the quality of the food, but in the way it's served - beautiful white porcelain platters.

there's barely any seating, and lines can form, but they are quick at taim. we've bumped into many people we know there, who swear they are regulars and will never stray this most lovely and special of casual eateries.

bless you, taim!

222 waverly place
new york
212 691 1287

postscript: i've just been informed (thanks hillary!) that the new yorker equally enjoyed taim, as evidence in their recent review!

not so funky, but very chunky

chocolate chunk cookie, how divine!

this is my most favorite standby, which, by the way, i NEVER eat as i am completely unable to control myself (one, two, or five never seem to be enough for me) ... these cookies, really a variation on the basic tollhouse recipe, are updated with nuggets of belgian chocolate appearing in bittersweet and milk form. the dough can be made in advance, wrapped tight and refrigerated, then used for a couple of cookies (after school snack), or en masse at the end of a dinner party (oozing, and fresh out of the oven, with a tall glass of skim milk!). highly recommended, and i take no responsibility for what happens to your waste-line.

harley's chocolate chunk cookies
1 cup light brown sugar, packed
1/2 cup white sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) softened plugra butter, room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs
2-1/2 cups unbleached flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound each bittersweet chocolate AND milk chocolate (in large planks, either trader joe's or callebaut or similar)

1. when you are ready to bake the cookies, preheat the oven to 300º (NOT 350º as normally recommended for cookies) and have ready a large, flat baking sheet (without sides)
2. combine the two sugars, using your impeccably clean fingers to remove any lumps in the brown sugar; add the butter and sugar in a stand mixer (or by hand) and cream together until a smooth, light colored paste forms; scrape down the sides of the bowl
3. add the vanilla extract and the eggs to the paste, and 'whip' for 3 minutes - the mixture will go from curdlike brown consistency to a creamy, beige color - it should be light and fluffy; again, scrape down the sides of the bowl
4. at this point, i stop using the mixer - remove the bowl and on top of the creamy mixture add the flour, salt, and baking soda ... lightly combine these with a spoon, then really 'fold up' the buttery mixture into the dry ingredients - note: i try not to overmix at this stage, as the chocolate must still be folded in (so just get everything semi-combined - there will still be some flour visible)
5. using a heavy serrated knife, break the chocolate planks into large chunks - minimum 1/8 inch to 3/8 inch (only an architect would tell you that!); they can be uneven in size. add the chunks to the cookie dough, kind of lifting the chocolate pieces off of the cutting board with slightly splayed fingers (to let the chocolate 'dust' fall back and not get into the mixture). the goal is to end up with only the 'chunks' in the dough, and not all of the little pieces and flakes.
6. mix the dough with a heavy spatula or metal spoon until just combined, then wrap this bundle extremely tightly (no air!) and refrigerate for one hour.
7. to bake the cookies, unwrap the dough; break off a hunk of it and roll it between the palms of your hand to get a perfect 'ball' or circle of dough; where chunks of chocolate are peaking through, push them back into the ball. note: when placing the dough on the cookie sheet, try to put them down on a part of the cookie ball which does not have a big hunk of chocolate - a more 'doughy' bottom will be much less messy. you should get a dozen cookies on a large rectangular baking sheet.
8. pop the cookies in the oven, and bake until just set - at this low temperature it takes about 15 minutes depending on your oven. the cookies should not be brown on top, and you should 'rotate' them in the oven every five minutes or so. the cookies will be quite rounded and 'tall' - you can tell that they are done by touching the tops, and as long as they don't feel 'liquidy' they are fine (they'll continue to cook or set once removed from the oven).
9. when done, take the cookie sheet out of the oven and let the cookies rest on a the baking sheet for five minutes; transfer to a wire rack after that to let them cool (but not TOO cool, as they are absolutely scrumptious when just baked!!!)
10. enjoy!

h

hello, kashi

dear kashi:

i think you've come undone.

you used to be a part of the pack; thankfully, you've unwrapped your outer layer and exposed yourself to me. i always knew that you were kind of nuts - a trait that i find quite endearing! i admire your steadfast resolve with every fibre of my being ... and although i've chewed you out on a number of occasions, i think you internally how much i care for you.

i'm glad we've grown so close, even intimate: i feel as if you really understand what's going on deep down inside of me ... you're no regular friend - and you're consistency is so comforting. you have superb taste, and i have found our relationship to be sublimely fulfilling. you've made me strong which is no easy feat.

i have pounds and pounds of stories that i could share with you kashi, but let's just keep it light for now. you truly know how to pick me up when i'm low, and i'm grateful that you are unique and 'outside the box'. you've brought a real flavor to my life ... and there's most definitely more than a grain of truth to the rumors about us!

hope you stick around,

h

waiting around

i have uncovered the latest culinary trend.

it's a biggy.

you: unsuspecting but rather sophisticated diner at an upscale restaurant. you are seated at a lovely table, there is a great buzz, if somewhat 'affected', but pleasant nonetheless. the ambiance, lighting, graphics, and decor all promise a lovely evening for you and your dining companion(s).

he: your smiling, well groomed (usually better than you!), and simultaneously solicitous and aloof waiter. here comes the trend, after the characteristic introductory pleasantries. "have you ever dined with us before?", he queries. you nod your head (insert affirmative or negative, it doesn't really matter as said waitstaff will progress in the same fashion irrespective of your reply). "let me explain to you how it works....", and you suddenly find yourself the unwitting victim of a culinary diatribe that differentiates between various asian spices, or the finer points of italian cheeses, or how the products are grown organically on a farm upstate, or how plates will arrive at different times in a totally unnatural progression so you should not be alarmed.

let's just set this straight. we ARE familiar with the dining process, we are NOT discombobulated morons who have never seen the light of day, and we can navigate our way around a menu, realizing the importance of vocalizing any questions we may dream up. although frankly there rarely IS an opportunity to ask a question, as literally every single ingredient, breeding method, and cooking step is delineated on the giant and/or minuscule menu (reading glasses!!!). 'farm raised organic beefling braised in a port wine and lemongrass broth with shallots, cilantro, and turnips culled from our compost garden in the upper highlands' does not leave a lot to the imagination (other than utter perplexed exhaustion!).

we're not THAT stupid, are we???

any questions?

h

greece is the word

everyday, i begin my journey with a good dollop of greek yogurt - not the gloppy american version, laden with gelatin and sporting a slightly yellowish hue. rather, my beloved FACE total greek yogurt, with 0% fat. it's lily white complexion beckons me from it's all too familiar container ... it is smooth, creamy, and pale - a perfect foil for honey, raspberry coulis, a bit of sugar, or a sprinkling of go lean crunch by kashi.

i am proud to say that i have turned on many a friend to this, a staple of my diet. high in protein, low in calories, and full of goodness, this is a perfect food. i travel with it, bring it to the city with me for post-meeting drives home, and generally even travel with it in tow (just on car trips though - i can't imagine what the xrays of airport security would do to it!).

i generally eat an entire container during the course of any day - when i get up in the morning, i open it (discarding the parchment cover that lies underneath the lid, having once ingested half of it and freaking out, thinking the yogurt had gone bad!), give it a swirl, and leave it out on the counter all day. in my humble estimation, it gets better and better as it descends to room temperature, although i seem to be alone in this opinion. i think it is super delicious and extra creamy at this point - and i have been know to leave it out overnight, with nary a problem (or need for stomach pumping).

an additional benefit of ingesting all of this yogurt is the certainty that it virtually kills off any of those nasty microbes that make us sick. remember those commercials years ago for dannon, 100 year old men and women from azerbaijan smiling broadly, revealing that their secret to longevity and happiness lay in the fact that they ate this miracle food daily?

my recommendation, take the sum of these facts, total them up and put a smile on your face!

h

chocolate ganache: minority report

i'm not exactly sure what's happened. when i was a kid (no comment), there was nothing better than a slice of sara lee chocolate cake. the (probably faux) ganache chocolate on top of the (probably preservative laden) fluffy cake was heaven on a plate ...

in the era of grownup, carb free foods, most guests wistfully and willfully decline any dessert whatsoever. how sad. dessert is where i start (and end) any meal - what comes after the main course often defines what the main course is. forget the greenmarket, what's in season, organic blah blah blah - tell me what the tart, cookie, or cake is, and i'll give you a seven course dinner.

of late, i have pawned off wedges of chocolate ganache cake - the real thing - on unwitting guests. triple layer devil's food cake, homemade with real dutch cocoa, creamy plugra butter, fresh organic brown eggs - sound good, right. sliced and leveled to provide me with the perfect platform for the most simple and elegant of delicious toppings - ganache. the same stuff that makes up your truffles - pure and simple, equal parts fine quality chocolate and scalded cream. left to consummate their union, these two likely culprits become one - glossy, rich, deep, sweet, and oh so yummy. carefully encasing the aforementioned three layers of cake - and voila - perfection.

so why so few takers? the kids turn their noses up - they dream of duncan hines. i can almost forgive their ungrateful and brainwashed attitude. but adults? how to resist a wedge of cake? it's CAKE, for goodness sake ... aren't you listening? this is what life is all about!

so, the next time someone offers you a wedge of cake, think of me and eat it!!!

h

easy as pie

this delicious crumble hails from my tireless quest not to be tired! it's super easy, quick, inexpensive, and yummy with a dollop of creme fraiche! it's also extremely fattening and artery-clogging, so consult your physician prior to ingesting (i did!).

1 cup (2 sticks) butter at room temperature

1/2 cup confectioner's sugar, plus extra for dusting after baking

1-1/2 cups unbleached flour

1/2 cup light brown sugar

1 cup white sugar

teaspoon of cinnamon

teaspoon of vanilla

1 egg yolk

1 egg white, beaten with 2 tablespoons water

1-1/2 cups each frozen raspberries and frozen blueberries (i like trader joe's!)

1/2 lemon (juiced - discard lemon)

1.preheat the oven to 350º; have a rectangular fluted metal tart pan or round fluted metal tart pan ready (both should have a drop-out bottom)

2.in a food processor, combine 1 cup only of the flour, 1/2 cup only of the butter (the other 1/2 cup is for the crumble), the confectioner's sugar, and the egg yolk - pulse until the sticky dough gathers and comes together

3.either refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes and roll it out, placing gently in the pan, OR just press it into the bottom and sides of the pan, making a very thick crust on all sides; trim the area where the dough meets the top of the pan with a knife so you have a nice clean line

4.freeze the dough and pan for one hour; in the meantime, place the berries, cup of white sugar, and lemon juice in a saucepan, and bring to a boil on the stove - after the mixture reaches the boil, turn the heat down and let it simmer for 20 minutes - the resulting mixture should be almost jam-like

5.either pass the berry mixture through a sieve to remove the skins and seeds, or if you don't mind them and you like the mixture with a bit of texture, you're good ... in any case, put the berry mixture into a bowl and transfer to the fridge to let it cool

6.to make the crumble, simply combine the brown sugar, remaining flour, vanilla, and cinnamon - add the remaining half cup of butter and 'cut' together with the tines of a fork (this can also be done in the food processor) - you are NOT looking for a dough like mixture - rather, this should look like a crumble, with some pieces the size of peas - do not overmix, go easy!

7. add approximately 2 tablespoons of the egg white/water mixture to the crumble - this will help it 'set' during baking and will hold the crumble shape - not too much, you don't want to make it 'wet'

8.assemble the tart - remove the dough lined metal pan from the freezer, then spoon in the berry mixture - finally spoon the crumble topping over the berry mixture, all the way to the edges of the pan ... don't worry if some of it 'sinks' into the berries, but do add it all to make it a thick and rich crumble

9.bake the tart, uncovered, for 20 minutes on the lower rack of the oven - it's helpful to have a piece of foil on the 'floor' or bottom rack to catch any juices which may bubble over ... after 20 minutes, turn the tart around, and cover loosely with foil - continue to bake for another 20 to 25 minutes - the tart should be golden brown

10.let the tart cool, remove from the pan, and once cooled dust liberally with powdered sugar - enjoy!!!