09 February 2008

all puffed up and no place to go


thursday night is soufflé night. although frankly, jane has grown sick of the routine - she walks in, is handed a glass of wine, and voila - there is a cheese soufflé, with grilled asparagus and a oil-cured moroccan olives.

now who wouldn't be happy with that? well ... you know who! that's who! talk about ungrateful! i still go on, looking forward to our little tete a tete with great enthusiasm ... this is tv dinner territory - ugly betty, the office - it doesn't matter, as long as it's the night before the weekend, the kids are fed (don't want them pilfering the crust), and it's after 8pm.

it's always critical to remember that you must wait for the soufflé - the soufflé does not wait for you! we eat it right away, piping hot, with a bit of kosher salt sprinkled on top!

thursdé-soufflé:
1. preheat the oven to 375º, and butter a large ramekin - be generous!
2. in a saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons plugra butter - quickly whisk in 1/4 cup flour, and cook together until the butter and flour come together - about 1 minute.
3. to the paste like mixture, add 1-1/2 cups room temperature skim milk over a low flame ... continue whisking and let everything thicken - it should be smooth and creamy
4. immediately add 1 cup freshly grated cheese - your choice (reggiano, pecorino romano, gruyere, etc.) and whisk until melted and incorporated
5. separate 4 large eggs, and whisk in egg yolks one at a time - after all 4 yolks are incoporated, add 1 tablespoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper; set aside
6. in a stand mixer or using a whisk, beat the four egg whites together, with 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar ... the egg whites will puff up and become opaque - do NOT make them overly stiff, or into a meringue like consistency ... they should be white, foamy, and frothy; immediately whisk them into the egg yolk/cheese base mixture, making sure to NOT be too vigorous (if you're unsure of your hand, use a rubber spatula and fold everything together, although if using a whisk you can just move about in a circular fashion)
7. straight away, put the soufflé mixture into the buttered ramekin, and pop it into the oven until the whole affair is puffed up, and golden brown (deeply golden, that is) on top ... i usually use 4o to 45 minutes as my benchmark, but your oven may do it's own thing
8. eat and enjoy - so yummy, don't forget the salt!

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