Showing posts with label ganache. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ganache. Show all posts

18 February 2008

when life gives you meyer lemons ...



what the heck is a meyer lemon, anyhow? juicy, ripe, sweet, and almost orange, these citrus gifts can be found (briefly) at the local market. guess where it hails from, originally (think toys, clothes, and lead toothpaste) ... right, china.

but unlike other things from this far-flung nation, the origins of the meyer lemon are steeped in tradition, and not a burgeoning economy. named for an employee of the u.s. department of agriculture, these fragrant beauties are cultivated right here at home.

inspiring in a lemon tarte with a crispy crust, they play a role in both the flavor and visuals of this glossy dessert. don't be a sour-puss ... give it a whirl!

meyer lemon curd tarte
prepare the crust:
1. in the bowl of a food processor, combine 1.5 cups flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 cup sugar, and pulse; stop the blade and add 1-1/2 sticks butter (cubed into 10 pieces) - pulse again until the mixture has small bits of butter covered in the dry ingredients [do NOT make a paste]
2. add 6 tablespoons of cold ice water, and pulse again until the mixture is finer (but not a dough) - it has enough liquid if the blend can be pressed together
3. turn the bowl out on the counter, and quickly pat the ingredients together in a ball or dome form - wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 45 minutes [now's the time to make the curd filling, below]
4. preheat the oven to 375ยบ
5. remove the dough, unwrap, and use a rolling pin to flatten to 1/4 inch thickness - you should get a large circle of pastry, which you can then line a tarte pan with (fluted or straight-sided, with a removable bottom)
6. pierce the bottom of the shell with a knife so air can escape, and bake uncovered until the tarte is completely golden brown (note: turn the pan in the oven halfway around about 20 minutes into the process)

for the meyer lemon curd:
1. in a stand mixer bowl, place 2 whole eggs and 2 egg yolks (reserve the extra 2 egg whites at room temperature) - add 1 cup sugar and whip fervently until the mixture is creamy and pale in color
2. zest 4 meyer lemons (or 2 regular lemons) and add to the egg batter, along with the juice of all of the lemons - whip again briefly, just to incorporate
3. in a saucepan, heat 1 inch of cold water, bringing it quickly to the boil - reduce to simmer, and place the stand mixer metal bowl with the above ingredients over the saucepan - whisk constantly in this makeshift double boiler to thicken the custard [note: the hot water should NOT be touching the underside of the metal bowl]
4. when the mixture is thickened, immediately remove from the hot water below, and pour it into a mixing bowl - add 1/2 cup heavy cream and whisk to combine
5. wash out the mixing bowl and whip, making certain that it is completely dry ... add the remaining 2 egg whites and whip until frothy; slowly add 1/2 cup sugar along the side of the bowl with the stand mixer running to make a 'meringue' (add the sugar very, very slowly!) ... the egg whites will turn from translucent beige to opaque white and fairly stiff and glossy - that's when they're ready!
6. add the meringue to the lemon curd batter, and it's ready to go into the baked tarte shell

NOTE: when the tarte shell comes out of the oven, leave it in the pan (don't remove the bottom); slowly pour the custard into the center of the shell, slowly, and let it creep towards the edges - fill it all the way, but don't overflow it (there's nothing wrong with a bit of extra lemon curd in the house, but a messy tarte? there's no excuse for that!). refrigerate your delicious and shiny confection, and enjoy with a bit of raspberry coulis on the side, some candied lemon peel, or even a dollop of chocolate ganache and creme fraiche!!!

lemons never had it so good!

05 November 2007

chocolate ganache: minority report


i'm not exactly sure what's happened. when i was a kid (no comment), there was nothing better than a slice of sara lee chocolate cake. the (probably faux) ganache chocolate on top of the (probably preservative laden) fluffy cake was heaven on a plate ...

in the era of grownup, carb free foods, most guests wistfully and willfully decline any dessert whatsoever. how sad. dessert is where i start (and end) any meal - what comes after the main course often defines what the main course is. forget the greenmarket, what's in season, organic blah blah blah - tell me what the tart, cookie, or cake is, and i'll give you a seven course dinner.

of late, i have pawned off wedges of chocolate ganache cake - the real thing - on unwitting guests. triple layer devil's food cake, homemade with real dutch cocoa, creamy plugra butter, fresh organic brown eggs - sound good, right. sliced and leveled to provide me with the perfect platform for the most simple and elegant of delicious toppings - ganache. the same stuff that makes up your truffles - pure and simple, equal parts fine quality chocolate and scalded cream. left to consummate their union, these two likely culprits become one - glossy, rich, deep, sweet, and oh so yummy. carefully encasing the aforementioned three layers of cake - and voila - perfection.

so why so few takers? the kids turn their noses up - they dream of duncan hines. i can almost forgive their ungrateful and brainwashed attitude. but adults? how to resist a wedge of cake? it's CAKE, for goodness sake ... aren't you listening? this is what life is all about!

so, the next time someone offers you a wedge of cake, think of me and eat it!!!

h