like the corners of my mind

memory.

and food.

or drink.

my first visit to rwanda finds me stranded in african luxury, sans access to my habitual morning café creme. eschewing the call of filtered coffee, and in need of my milky fix, i am offered french press coffee (real rwandan beans) with steamed milk. somewhat sceptical, i relent.

that first morning, deep in the heart of east africa, i overlook the capital kigali from a tiled terrace. the delicious breakfast - buffet style - is incredible, incredibly. fresh everything, from vegetables, roasted tomatoes, salmon (inexplicably offered in this very land locked country); fresh scones; and my personal favorite, kenyan yogurt with blossom honey. it beckons a flurry of activity ... from terrace to dining room and back, many a time.

on my second or third trip, filling up plates shamelessly (seems like an odd indulgence in africa - or maybe an odd privilege?), my coffee appears. a small carafe of fresh brewed java, plunged in front of me to release the full flavor just as i sink into my chair. with my customary raw sugar and steamed milk. enough for two or three cups, at minimum.

those early days of discovery on this continent, and the satisfaction, reward, and wonder that the trip brings, are forever tied to certain triggers. the acrid smell of smoke in the morning (wafting from homes burning charcoal or wood); the verdant hillsides of this tiny country, always encountered at 50 mph; the gripping handshake cementing friendship with a smile (forgive me my sentimentality); and of course, the newly rediscovered passion for french press coffee.

i mimic this part of the ritual every morning at 9:15, back home in the comfort of my suburban home. the house is quiet, work has begun, and i steal a few moments pour moi, to enjoy two yummy cups of the brew. it always brings me 'back', and therein lies the rub - i don't really think it's the taste of the coffee that tantalizes ... rather, it's the taste of my time, on my own, enjoying one of life's adventures.

when life gives you meyer lemons ...

what the heck is a meyer lemon, anyhow? juicy, ripe, sweet, and almost orange, these citrus gifts can be found (briefly) at the local market. guess where it hails from, originally (think toys, clothes, and lead toothpaste) ... right, china.

but unlike other things from this far-flung nation, the origins of the meyer lemon are steeped in tradition, and not a burgeoning economy. named for an employee of the u.s. department of agriculture, these fragrant beauties are cultivated right here at home.

inspiring in a lemon tarte with a crispy crust, they play a role in both the flavor and visuals of this glossy dessert. don't be a sour-puss ... give it a whirl!

meyer lemon curd tarte
prepare the crust:
1. in the bowl of a food processor, combine 1.5 cups flour, 1 teaspoon salt, 1/4 cup sugar, and pulse; stop the blade and add 1-1/2 sticks butter (cubed into 10 pieces) - pulse again until the mixture has small bits of butter covered in the dry ingredients [do NOT make a paste]
2. add 6 tablespoons of cold ice water, and pulse again until the mixture is finer (but not a dough) - it has enough liquid if the blend can be pressed together
3. turn the bowl out on the counter, and quickly pat the ingredients together in a ball or dome form - wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for 45 minutes [now's the time to make the curd filling, below]
4. preheat the oven to 375º
5. remove the dough, unwrap, and use a rolling pin to flatten to 1/4 inch thickness - you should get a large circle of pastry, which you can then line a tarte pan with (fluted or straight-sided, with a removable bottom)
6. pierce the bottom of the shell with a knife so air can escape, and bake uncovered until the tarte is completely golden brown (note: turn the pan in the oven halfway around about 20 minutes into the process)

for the meyer lemon curd:
1. in a stand mixer bowl, place 2 whole eggs and 2 egg yolks (reserve the extra 2 egg whites at room temperature) - add 1 cup sugar and whip fervently until the mixture is creamy and pale in color
2. zest 4 meyer lemons (or 2 regular lemons) and add to the egg batter, along with the juice of all of the lemons - whip again briefly, just to incorporate
3. in a saucepan, heat 1 inch of cold water, bringing it quickly to the boil - reduce to simmer, and place the stand mixer metal bowl with the above ingredients over the saucepan - whisk constantly in this makeshift double boiler to thicken the custard [note: the hot water should NOT be touching the underside of the metal bowl]
4. when the mixture is thickened, immediately remove from the hot water below, and pour it into a mixing bowl - add 1/2 cup heavy cream and whisk to combine
5. wash out the mixing bowl and whip, making certain that it is completely dry ... add the remaining 2 egg whites and whip until frothy; slowly add 1/2 cup sugar along the side of the bowl with the stand mixer running to make a 'meringue' (add the sugar very, very slowly!) ... the egg whites will turn from translucent beige to opaque white and fairly stiff and glossy - that's when they're ready!
6. add the meringue to the lemon curd batter, and it's ready to go into the baked tarte shell

NOTE: when the tarte shell comes out of the oven, leave it in the pan (don't remove the bottom); slowly pour the custard into the center of the shell, slowly, and let it creep towards the edges - fill it all the way, but don't overflow it (there's nothing wrong with a bit of extra lemon curd in the house, but a messy tarte? there's no excuse for that!). refrigerate your delicious and shiny confection, and enjoy with a bit of raspberry coulis on the side, some candied lemon peel, or even a dollop of chocolate ganache and creme fraiche!!!

lemons never had it so good!

please don't break my heart!

so, the jews don't acknowledge it. the muslims outright ban it (at least in jeddah and riyadh). but there's no doubt about it - it's valentines day! now we don't have to get into all the nitty gritty details - who's the patron saint of what, etc.. just think of it as a time to express yourself, and let the love shine through!

and speaking of expressing yourself, may i be so bold as to recommend these super delicious cookies, which as it turns out, are best eaten in pairs (one is not enough, and three is too many!) ... enjoy that special glow!

have a heart cookies:
1. preheat oven to 300º
2. in a mixing bowl pair 2 sticks of plugra butter (1/2 pound) with 1 cup confectioner's sugar - beat in your stand mixer until the two are creamy and unite as 1!
3. add 1 teaspoon vanilla and 1 large egg to the mixture, and beat thoroughly until the 'batter' is light and fluffy (don't forget to scrape down the sides) - note: it should not look like 'curds'; rather, it should be creamy and smooth
4. add 1/4 cup corn starch, 1 teaspoon salt, and 1-3/4 cups all purpose unbleached flour - beat until JUST combined - do NOT overdo it!
5. refrigerate dough for 30 minutes, then roll out to 1/8 inch thickness (you can even make them thicker or thinner, depending if you like 'crunchy' or 'chewy'!)
6. using a heart shaped cookie cutter, cut out your shapes, placing them on a flat baking sheet - gather the excess dough, roll it out again, and repeat
7. bake the cookies in the oven, rotating them so they do not brown on top - they are done when the bottoms are a very pale golden color, and you may see some slight browning along the edges - don't bake them any longer!
8. let the cookies cool on a wire rack ... in the meantime, prepare the icing by combining 1 large egg white with 2 tablespoons cold milk - add 4 cups confectioner's sugar and mix until combined (note: the icing should be glossy and quite thick, but NOT stiff and NOT runny - adjust with a bit of extra milk or sugar as needed)
9. color can be added to half the icing (red, as seen above for example); spoon the icing(s) into ziplock bags and snip a corner just at the tip to use as your piping piece
10. go wild with the icing - to get an overall glaze, pipe an outline around the cookie, about 1/4 inch from the edge - then 'fill in' between the piped outline with one or both colors (which can then be swirled with a toothpick, or dotted, or criss crossed - the two colors will blend together after a few moments)
11. let the iced cookies set for at least 3 hours - the inner part of the icing has to 'harden' (of course, they can be eaten right away, just know that the icing may run ...)
12. enjoy, and have a heart!

all puffed up and no place to go

thursday night is soufflé night. although frankly, jane has grown sick of the routine - she walks in, is handed a glass of wine, and voila - there is a cheese soufflé, with grilled asparagus and a oil-cured moroccan olives.

now who wouldn't be happy with that? well ... you know who! that's who! talk about ungrateful! i still go on, looking forward to our little tete a tete with great enthusiasm ... this is tv dinner territory - ugly betty, the office - it doesn't matter, as long as it's the night before the weekend, the kids are fed (don't want them pilfering the crust), and it's after 8pm.

it's always critical to remember that you must wait for the soufflé - the soufflé does not wait for you! we eat it right away, piping hot, with a bit of kosher salt sprinkled on top!

thursdé-soufflé:
1. preheat the oven to 375º, and butter a large ramekin - be generous!
2. in a saucepan, melt 4 tablespoons plugra butter - quickly whisk in 1/4 cup flour, and cook together until the butter and flour come together - about 1 minute.
3. to the paste like mixture, add 1-1/2 cups room temperature skim milk over a low flame ... continue whisking and let everything thicken - it should be smooth and creamy
4. immediately add 1 cup freshly grated cheese - your choice (reggiano, pecorino romano, gruyere, etc.) and whisk until melted and incorporated
5. separate 4 large eggs, and whisk in egg yolks one at a time - after all 4 yolks are incoporated, add 1 tablespoon kosher salt and 1 teaspoon fresh cracked black pepper; set aside
6. in a stand mixer or using a whisk, beat the four egg whites together, with 1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar ... the egg whites will puff up and become opaque - do NOT make them overly stiff, or into a meringue like consistency ... they should be white, foamy, and frothy; immediately whisk them into the egg yolk/cheese base mixture, making sure to NOT be too vigorous (if you're unsure of your hand, use a rubber spatula and fold everything together, although if using a whisk you can just move about in a circular fashion)
7. straight away, put the soufflé mixture into the buttered ramekin, and pop it into the oven until the whole affair is puffed up, and golden brown (deeply golden, that is) on top ... i usually use 4o to 45 minutes as my benchmark, but your oven may do it's own thing
8. eat and enjoy - so yummy, don't forget the salt!

scone alone

i always though scones were low in fat when i starting ingesting them, sans clotted cream. then i went ahead and spoiled that delusion by starting to bake them myself. now it's easy to see why i was initially fooled. they are light, flaky, and never greasy in that muffin-from-the-gas-station sort of way. who was to know just had much butter had been worked into the batter! the most critical thing to remember when creating these buttermilk babies is go easy ...

so, enjoy with a dusting of powdered sugar, or slice them in half and slather with creme fraiche and homemade pear butter, and even a dollop of jam will do fine! this version, which is easy to make and can even be prepared the night before and 'held' in the fridge until it's time for baking, is delicious breakfast food!

take-it-easy scones:
1. preheat oven to 400º, and have a ungreased cookie sheet at the ready (if baking right after mixing)
2. combine 3 cups flour, 1/2 cup sugar, 1 tablespoon baking powder, 1/2 teaspoon baking soda, and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a large bowl
3. cut 12 tablespoons of cold plugra butter into 1/2 inch cubes, and toss with flour mixture. using your thumb and forefinger, compress the cubes of butter, flattening them and working them with the flour mixture [note: the point is not to 'incorporate' the butter, making it disappear - rather, it is to turn the butter into little pieces which are 'coated' in the dry ingredients]
4. add 1 cup of lowfat buttermilk to this crumbly mass, and stir in until all of the ingredients come together ... it will be flaky and not 'doughy', which is perfect
5. turn the mixture out onto a floured work surface, and using your hands, form it into a 6 inch diameter circle, which is 'domed' at the center - it should almost look like an inverted bowl
6. brush the pastry with melted butter, and sprinkle liberally with sugar-in-the-raw
7. cut the dome into 6 or 8 'wedges', and transfer the pieces to a baking sheet - i like to let this rest in the fridge for about 20 minutes before baking, but if you're short on time, by all means pop them in the oven!
8. bake for about 10 to 12 minutes, until the tops are 'set' and the edges are slightly golden - you can make them more well done if you like, although i prefer them with just under brown, when they are still tender
9. enjoy - and in truth, when eating a scone you're never alone!

you're a star!

quite often our taste buds react to our memories. mmmmmmm. this is one of those triggers: icebox cake. when i was a kid, my mother prepared this most easy of desserts, professing that she was not a baker. she would stack chocolate wafer cookies on their tangential ends, slathering each 'next' one with sweetened whipped cream, continuing until she had formed a log of about 20 cookies. she would repeat two or three times more, stacking the logs one beside the other, then once again coated the entire 'cake' with the remaining whipped cream. yummmm!

my version is pretty similar to this premise, but it's all in the details baby! my icebox mini cupcakes are individual portions topped with a powdered sugar etoile (really just a cutout made from a piece of paper - using an x-acto knife, i trim away a star shape, leaving a void in it's place which gets centered over the round wafer tower, dusted with confectioner's sugar in a sieve, et voila - so sweet!).

the recipe: whip 2 cups heavy cream with 3 tablespoons sugar and a drop of vanilla (the real stuff, don't cheat!) - the cream should be thick like canned shaving cream [you can spoon it into a ziploc sac, squeezing it down towards one corner, and snip that corner to use as a decorating bag]. place one chocolate wafer on the center of a plate, securing it with a dab of cream. place another cookie on top, pipe out a dollop of cream into the center, and press (gently) another cookie on top of that, until there are 6 or 7 layers. place the 'cupcake' in the refrigerator overnight, so the crisp wafers have time to absorb the moisture in the beaten cream, marrying them together. the end result will be very cake-like indeed. before serving, decorate, spoon out some fresh berries, and enjoy!

enjoy the process!

i have a confession (or a confection!) to make ... although i normally admonish the use of processed food in almost all forms, i am guilty of succumbing to the ease and convenience of duncan hines! let me back up a moment. i am all for organic flour, french butter, sugar in the raw from hawai'i - but there's something about those processed cakes and frostings that just send people wild.

lemon tarte with fresh, flaky crust and bits of zest ensconced in a creamy custard (maybe topped with a perfect raspberry and silver dragée)? yep. buttermilk scones, sliced in half and slathered with caramelized pear butter and creme fraiche? definitely. but cake out of a box? frosting out of a can? well, don't be so judgmental!

this habit started in earnest shortly after the kids arrived on the scene. for jared's first birthday party, i (a relatively inexperienced baker) was stumped - how to craft a 5 foot long cake comprised of 5 letters - J-A-R-E-D, all jumbled together. the idea was born - bake 5 cakes, each in it's own rectangular pan, whittle each into it's own letter, fashion them on a foil-covered foamcore board, ice them, decorate them, and store them (where?). but how? alas, for a fraction of the price of one kilo of lescure, i was on my way with duncan hines devil's food cake mixes, and matching frostings (by the way, vanilla tastes exactly the same as cream cheese; milk chocolate tastes exactly the same as classic chocolate)!

the cakes - well, they take about 30 seconds to mix, and are completely predictable. they don't fall. they don't burn. they don't behave like insolent children! you can bake them on the top rack of the oven, you can crowd them, you can neglect them - and they still come out the same way! additionally, they can be flash frozen (and expediently defrosted), or basically left out on the counter for weeks, with nary a bacterial impact! and the icing. flip open the lid - no separating, no beating, no effort! just grab your offset spatula and you're good to go.

so, yes, i did just whip up a batch of homemade puff pastry for whatever may come my way. but when it's time for a birthday cake, a superbowl cake, a valentine's day cake - it's DH to the rescue!

the book of tea

when i was in architecture school, required reading was the book of tea.

this well crafted handbook lead the reader through the various rituals of the teahouse, subtly creating links between the service and preparation of this beverage and one's movement through the cosmic universe ... existentialism.

since that time, tea has peripherally moved in and out of my life. my childhood best friend ian used to insist that the very smell of tetley's made him vomit. my iraqi inlaws served it after meals, de rigeur, in their own middle eastern way. i've tried recipes for earl grey madeleines. and frequented the famous mariage freres tea salons of paris.

who could forgo the delicious indian chai, so ubiquitous in jaipur, delhi, and mumbai? a combination of milk, tea, spices (pepper, cardamon, etc.), sugar - a hot concoction in both temperature and taste ... and a most delicious way to pass the day!

i am a big fan of the organic tea range put out by heavenly tea. the leafy substances are perfumed in many cases with other organic ingredients which evoke not only middle eastern mystery, but also far eastern scents, sub-continental flavors, and the earthy tones of exotic locales. paired with the health benefits of these wonderful teas, this is a winning combination.

i was recently turned onto the act of drinking tea again. not for its medicinal or anti-oxidant qualities (impressive!). rather, tea as community sprang forth on a recent trip to morocco. mint tea at dar cherifa. or on the rooftop of our chic riad. or after dinner at fabulous and delicious le foundouk. or around a courtyard sharing sweets with perfect strangers (thanks maryam!).

since that journey in february, we drink moroccan mint tea almost nightly. in a large, white ceramic teapot, we heap in tablespoons of raw sugar; to that we add tea leaves, a giant bunch of fresh mint, and boiling water. we let it steep until the sweet liquid is the color of honey, and we drink (repeatedly - gallons!) the mint tea in lacy teaglasses (small, tall, gold and colored glass). the teacups themselves transport us back to our visit to north africa, being one of the few cheap purchases we made spontaneously one afternoon in the medina.

jane is still lamenting the painting she did not purchase at ministero del gusto - a silkscreened image of said cups by the london artist hassan hajjaj ... maybe next time!

h

dynamic duo

what a delightful concoction - m&m's with peanut butter!

you may have pegged me for a foodie snob (guilty), but there are some things in life that transgress even a cleansed palette. the aforementioned items fall into this category. i, unlike many i know, am NOT a chocolate snob. i love chocolate. and frankly, the more cloyingly sweet, the better. milk? yummy! dark? delectable! white? not even real chocolate, but oh so good! i will take a hershey's kiss over any belgian chocolate, any day (no offense debbie & dino!). i LOVE my low cocoa content american chocolate - is it a throwback to my childhood? have my tastebuds been hijacked by memory? maybe. but who cares! it's chocolate.

established: m&m's are delicious (bear with me). how about some peanut butter with that? smooth only please, the thought of chunky does not entice. creamy, salty, fatty - oh, i'm getting hungry. a spoonful of peanut butter, sprinkled with m&m's - a delicious bedtime snack! try to stop at five servings, usually my threshold. i've read that eating peanut butter before going to bed allows one to wake up refreshed and clear ... i'm sold!

don't tell anyone my secret, this is kind of embarrassing!

h

taim

for some time now, i have been expounding the virtues of our lovely taim.

it is now firmly entrenched in the west village, a neighborhood landmark of sorts. it is a rare breed - delicious, fast, cheap, and elegant - and extols it's virtues with a wonderfully executed graphic logo.

taim is hebrew for 'tasty', and that it is. sitting blithely on waverly place, it lounges about casually next to a theater and across from what used to be world of video. around the corner lies the former apartment of tom and adrienne, now in south carolina, having abandoned us all those years ago!

back to taim. to call it a restaurant would be a misnomer. it is a tiny enclave where only the freshest, most delicious, and artfully arranged falafels emerge. brilliant in a variety of flavors - regular, green, harissa, and specials - every fried chick pea ball is hot, moist, and tasty (kind of starting to sound like world of video all over again). the homemade moroccan spicy carrots are piquant; the hummus is thick and rich; the tahini delicate and fluid. israeli salad, zatar bread, and other middle eastern goodies round out the menu. i try to stay away from the addictive fries with saffron mayo for obvious reasons.

i have brought practically everyone i know to taim, although many have resisted its charms - who knows why? we love the owners, who despite repeated attempts, have not given us t-shirts to wear as free advertising! their french and israeli sensibilities show up not only in the quality of the food, but in the way it's served - beautiful white porcelain platters.

there's barely any seating, and lines can form, but they are quick at taim. we've bumped into many people we know there, who swear they are regulars and will never stray this most lovely and special of casual eateries.

bless you, taim!

222 waverly place
new york
212 691 1287

postscript: i've just been informed (thanks hillary!) that the new yorker equally enjoyed taim, as evidence in their recent review!

not so funky, but very chunky

chocolate chunk cookie, how divine!

this is my most favorite standby, which, by the way, i NEVER eat as i am completely unable to control myself (one, two, or five never seem to be enough for me) ... these cookies, really a variation on the basic tollhouse recipe, are updated with nuggets of belgian chocolate appearing in bittersweet and milk form. the dough can be made in advance, wrapped tight and refrigerated, then used for a couple of cookies (after school snack), or en masse at the end of a dinner party (oozing, and fresh out of the oven, with a tall glass of skim milk!). highly recommended, and i take no responsibility for what happens to your waste-line.

harley's chocolate chunk cookies
1 cup light brown sugar, packed
1/2 cup white sugar
1 cup (2 sticks) softened plugra butter, room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs
2-1/2 cups unbleached flour
3/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound each bittersweet chocolate AND milk chocolate (in large planks, either trader joe's or callebaut or similar)

1. when you are ready to bake the cookies, preheat the oven to 300º (NOT 350º as normally recommended for cookies) and have ready a large, flat baking sheet (without sides)
2. combine the two sugars, using your impeccably clean fingers to remove any lumps in the brown sugar; add the butter and sugar in a stand mixer (or by hand) and cream together until a smooth, light colored paste forms; scrape down the sides of the bowl
3. add the vanilla extract and the eggs to the paste, and 'whip' for 3 minutes - the mixture will go from curdlike brown consistency to a creamy, beige color - it should be light and fluffy; again, scrape down the sides of the bowl
4. at this point, i stop using the mixer - remove the bowl and on top of the creamy mixture add the flour, salt, and baking soda ... lightly combine these with a spoon, then really 'fold up' the buttery mixture into the dry ingredients - note: i try not to overmix at this stage, as the chocolate must still be folded in (so just get everything semi-combined - there will still be some flour visible)
5. using a heavy serrated knife, break the chocolate planks into large chunks - minimum 1/8 inch to 3/8 inch (only an architect would tell you that!); they can be uneven in size. add the chunks to the cookie dough, kind of lifting the chocolate pieces off of the cutting board with slightly splayed fingers (to let the chocolate 'dust' fall back and not get into the mixture). the goal is to end up with only the 'chunks' in the dough, and not all of the little pieces and flakes.
6. mix the dough with a heavy spatula or metal spoon until just combined, then wrap this bundle extremely tightly (no air!) and refrigerate for one hour.
7. to bake the cookies, unwrap the dough; break off a hunk of it and roll it between the palms of your hand to get a perfect 'ball' or circle of dough; where chunks of chocolate are peaking through, push them back into the ball. note: when placing the dough on the cookie sheet, try to put them down on a part of the cookie ball which does not have a big hunk of chocolate - a more 'doughy' bottom will be much less messy. you should get a dozen cookies on a large rectangular baking sheet.
8. pop the cookies in the oven, and bake until just set - at this low temperature it takes about 15 minutes depending on your oven. the cookies should not be brown on top, and you should 'rotate' them in the oven every five minutes or so. the cookies will be quite rounded and 'tall' - you can tell that they are done by touching the tops, and as long as they don't feel 'liquidy' they are fine (they'll continue to cook or set once removed from the oven).
9. when done, take the cookie sheet out of the oven and let the cookies rest on a the baking sheet for five minutes; transfer to a wire rack after that to let them cool (but not TOO cool, as they are absolutely scrumptious when just baked!!!)
10. enjoy!

h

hello, kashi

dear kashi:

i think you've come undone.

you used to be a part of the pack; thankfully, you've unwrapped your outer layer and exposed yourself to me. i always knew that you were kind of nuts - a trait that i find quite endearing! i admire your steadfast resolve with every fibre of my being ... and although i've chewed you out on a number of occasions, i think you internally how much i care for you.

i'm glad we've grown so close, even intimate: i feel as if you really understand what's going on deep down inside of me ... you're no regular friend - and you're consistency is so comforting. you have superb taste, and i have found our relationship to be sublimely fulfilling. you've made me strong which is no easy feat.

i have pounds and pounds of stories that i could share with you kashi, but let's just keep it light for now. you truly know how to pick me up when i'm low, and i'm grateful that you are unique and 'outside the box'. you've brought a real flavor to my life ... and there's most definitely more than a grain of truth to the rumors about us!

hope you stick around,

h

waiting around

i have uncovered the latest culinary trend.

it's a biggy.

you: unsuspecting but rather sophisticated diner at an upscale restaurant. you are seated at a lovely table, there is a great buzz, if somewhat 'affected', but pleasant nonetheless. the ambiance, lighting, graphics, and decor all promise a lovely evening for you and your dining companion(s).

he: your smiling, well groomed (usually better than you!), and simultaneously solicitous and aloof waiter. here comes the trend, after the characteristic introductory pleasantries. "have you ever dined with us before?", he queries. you nod your head (insert affirmative or negative, it doesn't really matter as said waitstaff will progress in the same fashion irrespective of your reply). "let me explain to you how it works....", and you suddenly find yourself the unwitting victim of a culinary diatribe that differentiates between various asian spices, or the finer points of italian cheeses, or how the products are grown organically on a farm upstate, or how plates will arrive at different times in a totally unnatural progression so you should not be alarmed.

let's just set this straight. we ARE familiar with the dining process, we are NOT discombobulated morons who have never seen the light of day, and we can navigate our way around a menu, realizing the importance of vocalizing any questions we may dream up. although frankly there rarely IS an opportunity to ask a question, as literally every single ingredient, breeding method, and cooking step is delineated on the giant and/or minuscule menu (reading glasses!!!). 'farm raised organic beefling braised in a port wine and lemongrass broth with shallots, cilantro, and turnips culled from our compost garden in the upper highlands' does not leave a lot to the imagination (other than utter perplexed exhaustion!).

we're not THAT stupid, are we???

any questions?

h

greece is the word

everyday, i begin my journey with a good dollop of greek yogurt - not the gloppy american version, laden with gelatin and sporting a slightly yellowish hue. rather, my beloved FACE total greek yogurt, with 0% fat. it's lily white complexion beckons me from it's all too familiar container ... it is smooth, creamy, and pale - a perfect foil for honey, raspberry coulis, a bit of sugar, or a sprinkling of go lean crunch by kashi.

i am proud to say that i have turned on many a friend to this, a staple of my diet. high in protein, low in calories, and full of goodness, this is a perfect food. i travel with it, bring it to the city with me for post-meeting drives home, and generally even travel with it in tow (just on car trips though - i can't imagine what the xrays of airport security would do to it!).

i generally eat an entire container during the course of any day - when i get up in the morning, i open it (discarding the parchment cover that lies underneath the lid, having once ingested half of it and freaking out, thinking the yogurt had gone bad!), give it a swirl, and leave it out on the counter all day. in my humble estimation, it gets better and better as it descends to room temperature, although i seem to be alone in this opinion. i think it is super delicious and extra creamy at this point - and i have been know to leave it out overnight, with nary a problem (or need for stomach pumping).

an additional benefit of ingesting all of this yogurt is the certainty that it virtually kills off any of those nasty microbes that make us sick. remember those commercials years ago for dannon, 100 year old men and women from azerbaijan smiling broadly, revealing that their secret to longevity and happiness lay in the fact that they ate this miracle food daily?

my recommendation, take the sum of these facts, total them up and put a smile on your face!

h

chocolate ganache: minority report

i'm not exactly sure what's happened. when i was a kid (no comment), there was nothing better than a slice of sara lee chocolate cake. the (probably faux) ganache chocolate on top of the (probably preservative laden) fluffy cake was heaven on a plate ...

in the era of grownup, carb free foods, most guests wistfully and willfully decline any dessert whatsoever. how sad. dessert is where i start (and end) any meal - what comes after the main course often defines what the main course is. forget the greenmarket, what's in season, organic blah blah blah - tell me what the tart, cookie, or cake is, and i'll give you a seven course dinner.

of late, i have pawned off wedges of chocolate ganache cake - the real thing - on unwitting guests. triple layer devil's food cake, homemade with real dutch cocoa, creamy plugra butter, fresh organic brown eggs - sound good, right. sliced and leveled to provide me with the perfect platform for the most simple and elegant of delicious toppings - ganache. the same stuff that makes up your truffles - pure and simple, equal parts fine quality chocolate and scalded cream. left to consummate their union, these two likely culprits become one - glossy, rich, deep, sweet, and oh so yummy. carefully encasing the aforementioned three layers of cake - and voila - perfection.

so why so few takers? the kids turn their noses up - they dream of duncan hines. i can almost forgive their ungrateful and brainwashed attitude. but adults? how to resist a wedge of cake? it's CAKE, for goodness sake ... aren't you listening? this is what life is all about!

so, the next time someone offers you a wedge of cake, think of me and eat it!!!

h

easy as pie

this delicious crumble hails from my tireless quest not to be tired! it's super easy, quick, inexpensive, and yummy with a dollop of creme fraiche! it's also extremely fattening and artery-clogging, so consult your physician prior to ingesting (i did!).

1 cup (2 sticks) butter at room temperature

1/2 cup confectioner's sugar, plus extra for dusting after baking

1-1/2 cups unbleached flour

1/2 cup light brown sugar

1 cup white sugar

teaspoon of cinnamon

teaspoon of vanilla

1 egg yolk

1 egg white, beaten with 2 tablespoons water

1-1/2 cups each frozen raspberries and frozen blueberries (i like trader joe's!)

1/2 lemon (juiced - discard lemon)

1.preheat the oven to 350º; have a rectangular fluted metal tart pan or round fluted metal tart pan ready (both should have a drop-out bottom)

2.in a food processor, combine 1 cup only of the flour, 1/2 cup only of the butter (the other 1/2 cup is for the crumble), the confectioner's sugar, and the egg yolk - pulse until the sticky dough gathers and comes together

3.either refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes and roll it out, placing gently in the pan, OR just press it into the bottom and sides of the pan, making a very thick crust on all sides; trim the area where the dough meets the top of the pan with a knife so you have a nice clean line

4.freeze the dough and pan for one hour; in the meantime, place the berries, cup of white sugar, and lemon juice in a saucepan, and bring to a boil on the stove - after the mixture reaches the boil, turn the heat down and let it simmer for 20 minutes - the resulting mixture should be almost jam-like

5.either pass the berry mixture through a sieve to remove the skins and seeds, or if you don't mind them and you like the mixture with a bit of texture, you're good ... in any case, put the berry mixture into a bowl and transfer to the fridge to let it cool

6.to make the crumble, simply combine the brown sugar, remaining flour, vanilla, and cinnamon - add the remaining half cup of butter and 'cut' together with the tines of a fork (this can also be done in the food processor) - you are NOT looking for a dough like mixture - rather, this should look like a crumble, with some pieces the size of peas - do not overmix, go easy!

7. add approximately 2 tablespoons of the egg white/water mixture to the crumble - this will help it 'set' during baking and will hold the crumble shape - not too much, you don't want to make it 'wet'

8.assemble the tart - remove the dough lined metal pan from the freezer, then spoon in the berry mixture - finally spoon the crumble topping over the berry mixture, all the way to the edges of the pan ... don't worry if some of it 'sinks' into the berries, but do add it all to make it a thick and rich crumble

9.bake the tart, uncovered, for 20 minutes on the lower rack of the oven - it's helpful to have a piece of foil on the 'floor' or bottom rack to catch any juices which may bubble over ... after 20 minutes, turn the tart around, and cover loosely with foil - continue to bake for another 20 to 25 minutes - the tart should be golden brown

10.let the tart cool, remove from the pan, and once cooled dust liberally with powdered sugar - enjoy!!!

what a lovely day!

is there anything better than wandering down to nolita on a wednesday evening (or better yet, finding a parking spot on elizabeth street at 7pm) for an asian inspired dinner at the quirkily named and decorated 'lovely day'. the font on the sign outside entices with a come hither look - surely cupcakes and chocolate await ... and even the decor speaks to something, anything that is not (the formerly ubiquitous) asian food.

and yet, there it is, a lovely day indeed. a table always awaits, despite the obvious lack of space and dearth of seating ... a small selection of asian beers, followed by yummy cole-slaw inspired salads, then noodles, noodles, noodles. but wait, we forgot (the famous) ginger fried chicken - tender, crispy, sinful - we can start that diet tomorrow (or just continue it).

lovely day is a sweet treat, and has a true neighborhood feel to it ... it's quick, cheap, tasty, and oh-so-fine ...

try it!

lovely day - 196 elizabeth street - new york - 212 925 3310

h

eat, drink, and be mary!

remember mary tyler moore's kitchen? what's a girl to do, or for that matter, 'that girl'. from tiny spaces the most delectable concoctions can appear - baking, cooking, and dining are a state of mind (and a state of mine!). so join me as i lay out some recipes, thoughts on eating, and share my favorite little boites with you ...

bon appetit,

harley